From Cold and Foggy to Warm and Welcoming
The restaurant at the Albergue this morning did not open until later in the day, and there was no kitchen. I set off without coffee, in the dark and the fog.
I walked 5km to Portomarin. It was so foggy, that it was actually hard to find a coffee shop! Determination was high though, and I prevailed. I ended up taking quite a long break, to warm up and then to find groceries.
I set of again with 9km in front of me before anymore services. In that stretch, it warmed up. I had to remove my layers as the temperature climbed from 7 to 20 degrees. The fog burned off and the sun came out. All of a sudden there was a view!
Another coffee stop (shocking) and I was fueled up to continue. Total kilometerage today was 22km. In the last 5km, my shin started to hurt again.
I slowed down.
Arriving in Ligonde, I was welcomed into a small Albergue that is owned by an international organization. Their goal is to provide a gift to pilgrims, but you are allowed to donate if you wish. The building is very interesting, old and restored. There are only 7 beds, and they are not bunk beds. There is a map ok the wall illustrating the final 75km ahead of us.
They gave me ice for my shin and encouraged me to rest. They offered tea and coffee. They provided an entire 4 course meal. It is such a warm place. I feel honored to be welcomed here. They are trying to figure out how to keep this place open year round, and I hope they succeed!